Binondo Food Crawl: A Journey through Manila’s Chinatown
Written by Kris Soliongco | Edited by Bianca Versoza
Binondo is Manila’s Chinatown, and it’s the oldest in the world, being established in 1594 during the early stages of Spanish colonization. But don’t let this place’s age fool you; it’s as lively as ever, especially when it comes to mouthwatering delights that aren’t found anywhere else.
What makes Binondo’s vibrant food scene special is its blend of Chinese, Filipino, Spanish, and American influences. Over the centuries, these culinary traditions have converged to create distinctive flavors catered to the Philippine palette that foodies from anywhere would appreciate.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through my favorite spots in Binondo.
We will explore everything from hole-in-the-wall eateries to long-standing establishments that have been around for generations. Furthermore, I will tell you where to find the best lumpia, pancit, siomai, and other Chinese-Filipino classics. So, without further ado, let’s get started!
Preparing for your Binondo food crawl
Before we talk food, I’d like to share tips for making your trip to Binondo smoother and more enjoyable. Trust me, a little preparation goes a long way toward improving your experience.
The best time to visit Binondo
I’ve found that weekdays, especially mid-morning to late afternoon, are ideal for exploring Binondo and Manila in general, as the streets are less crowded and all shops are open.
Visiting during the weekend should be avoided since things can get pretty hectic. With that said, if you’re into the hustle and bustle, Binondo during Chinese New Year is the place for you.
What to wear and bring
When putting together an outfit for Binondo, remember that comfort is key. You’ll be walking a lot, so wear shoes that can handle uneven streets. Beyond that, going for light, breathable clothes is advisable because Manila’s heat and humidity during any season are no joke.
Don’t forget to bring the following:
- Cash (many small eateries are cash-only)
- Water bottle
- Hand sanitizer
- A small bag for takeaways
- Your phone or camera for food pics
Best Binondo restaurants to experience
It’s finally time to dive deeper into Binondo’s fantastic cuisine! I’m about to take you on a journey through some of the best eateries this district has to offer. From historic establishments to hidden gems, we’ll explore my favorite Binondo spots that will amaze your taste buds.
To Ho Panciteria Antigua
Let’s begin with a true Binondo institution: To Ho Panciteria Antigua.
This place isn’t just a mere eating spot; it’s an actual living piece of history. Established in 1866, this restaurant claims to be the oldest in the Philippines, serving up tasty Chinese-Filipino fusion cuisine for over 150 years!
To Ho’s primary specialty is pancit canton, which has chewy noodles with just the right amount of bite—meanwhile, its buttered chicken bursts with umami flavors and scrumptious juiciness. I also highly recommend their camaron reposado (fried battered shrimp), served hot and crispy with a sweet and sour sauce.
You can find To Ho on the outskirts of Binondo in Tomas Pipin St, which is a great place to start your Binondo Food Crawl. It’s a ten-minute walk from here to Ongpin St, the heart of Manila’s Chinatown district.
Cafe Mezzanine
Cafe Mezzanine is a place that serves great food for a noble cause. Known colloquially as “The Fireman’s Coffeeshop,” this eatery donates all its profits to the Binondo Fire Volunteer Brigade.
Although it has the word cafe in its name, Cafe Mezzanine is not a coffee shop. Instead, it is a full-fledged restaurant that serves all kinds of Chinese-Filipino foods and drinks. My favorite among its offerings has got to be the salted egg siopao, which oozes eggy, creamy goodness.
Making your way here from To Ho involves a ten-minute walk. From Tomas Pipin, turn right into Sabino Padilla St and continue until you reach Ongpin. There, simply look around for Chuan Kee, and you’ll find Cafe Mezzanine tucked away on the second floor of the same building.
Wai Ying Fast Food
Wai Ying is a quick service joint that is popular among Binondo locals.
This place is literally dumpling heaven. Its haka (shrimp dumplings) have a thin translucent wrapper and a fresh and succulent filling. However, Wai Ying’s house specialty is its xiao long bao soup dumplings, which are literally flavor bombs waiting to explode in your mouth. Beyond that, I highly recommend their siomai, which boasts the perfect texture due to the ideal balance of pork and shrimp in the filling.
Getting to Wai Ying from Cafe Mezzanine is easy. All you have to do is exit Cafe Mezzanine and then turn right into Ongpin St. From there, continue walking for around five minutes until you reach Benavidez St, where Wai Ying’s most popular branch is just a few steps away.
Dong Bei Dumplings
If your dim sum cravings still have not been satisfied, then Dong Bei is definitely worth checking out. Specializing in North Chinese dumplings, their kuchay has become a favorite among locals and tourists alike. This type of dumpling combines chives, eggs, and pork into a simple yet very satisfying bite-sized package you’ll surely enjoy.
From Wai Ying, head back to Ongpin St and walk until you’ve reached Yuchengco St, where you turn right and head straight until you see Dong Bei Dumplings. The place is a take-out-only spot, meaning you’ll have to enjoy what you buy elsewhere. It has a storefront that’s easy to overlook were it not for the long lines of people eager to sample their dumplings.
Lan Zhou La Mien
Lan Zhou La Mien is home to Binondo’s best hand-pulled noodles. Their beef la mien is the star of the show, with noodles that have the perfect bite and chewiness. Paired with that is an incredibly rich and flavorful beef broth that has a spicy version if you’re up for it.
While I didn’t try it, everyone I know praised Lan Zhou La Mien’s dan dan noodles. They are served dry and topped with minced pork, peanuts, and a spicy sauce, which are all to be mixed together to form a delectable assortment of flavors that will burst in your mouth.
To get to Lan Zhou La Mien from Dong Bei Dumplings, head back to Ongpin, then walk until you hit Quentin Paredes; from there, make your way to Reigna Regente St until you reach Lucky Chinatown Mall. There, you’ll be able to spot the restaurant easily as it’s very popular.
Best street food stops in Binondo
Binondo has a plethora of street food stops but we’ll be exploring two main areas: Carvajal and Ongpin St. These two places are teeming with fantastic street food you should definitely try out!
Carvajal Street
Sometimes referred to as “Umbrella Alley,” this narrow street is packed with food stalls, each offering unique flavors and specialties.
Once you’re there, prepare your tastebuds for a treat. Carvajal St is lined with food stalls that offer a variety of mouthwatering dishes. My favorite one has got to be New Po Heng Lumpia House, which serves large Chinese-style fresh lumpia that is both very filling and healthy.
For a heartier meal, I recommend Quick Snack. Their kiam pong, a savory sticky rice dish with pork and mushrooms, is Chinese-Filipino comfort food at its finest.
Ongpin Street vendors
Let’s now head back to Ongpin St. From Carvajal, head back to Benavidez, then turn right, and you should be in Ongpin in two minutes. Here, you will find Binondo’s most famous street food offerings.
One place you absolutely can’t miss on this street is Vege Select.
This all-vegetarian spot has an area where you can dine and enjoy a sweeping assortment of guilt-free dishes. Outside, they’ve got a sugarcane juice stall and grill stations where you can buy sticks of spicy grilled tofu and plant-based sausage made of gluten.
Another popular Ongpin street food spot is Shanghai Fried Siopao. As its name alludes, this place specializes in fried siopao. Even before they open, lines of eager people start to form outside, eager for some unique siopao, which is affordable, tasty, and served piping hot.
I encourage you to be adventurous when exploring Ongpin since you’ll never know what you’ll find. Keep an eye out for seasonal specialties, too, like mooncakes and tikoy, which are everywhere during Chinese New Year.
In addition, visiting the Chinese grocery stores along this street is highly recommended. These are not your typical Filipino grocery stores, and in them, you’ll find Chinese products available nowhere else in the country.
Specialty shops to visit in Binondo
Manila’s Chinatown is home to many specialty shops, many of which have stood the test of time and become institutions synonymous with Binondo itself. Chief among these places is Eng Bee Tin, one of my favorite Chinese delis.
Eng Bee Tin
Eng Bee Tin is a Chinese deli most well-known for its hopia, tikoy, and mooncakes.
Established in 1912, this place has garnered legendary status among locals. While there are countless Eng Bee Tin branches all over the Philippines, a pilgrimage to their main branch in Binondo is always a must-do because the original is always the best.
When you visit, you’ve got to try the hopia. These flaky pastries come with various fillings, but ube is the most popular. However, they also have other flavors, such as mongo, baboy, chocolate, pandan, and even custard.
Salazar Bakery
Salazar Bakery is another well-known establishment that’s been around for decades. It serves traditional Chinese-Filipino breads and cakes. The moment you step inside, you’ll immediately be hit with the warm aroma of warm, freshly baked goods.
Their egg tarts are a must-try. The custard is silky smooth, while the crust is perfectly flaky. Aside from that, Salazar Bakery also has great hopia that will give Eng Bee Tin a run for its money.
Ho-Land Hopia
Tucked away in Yuchengco St is Ho-Land Hopia, another iconic specialty shop in Binondo that has been satisfying sweet cravings for generations. Founded in 1970, this family-run business has become synonymous with high-quality hopia and other genuine Chinese-Filipino delicacies.
What sets Ho-Land apart is its commitment to using traditional recipes, ingredients, and modern techniques. The result is innovative flavors that appeal to modern Filipino tastes.
One of the bakery’s most popular items is the hopiang baboy (pork hopia). This item features a savory filling made from pork and onions. However, if you have more of a sweet tooth, then feel free to indulge in other flavors such as mongo, ube, pandan, winter melon, custard, and even chocolate!
Best spots to end your day in
After a long day of exploring Binondo’s busy streets, you might be looking for a chill spot to rest, unwind, and reflect. Two of my absolute favorite places to end a food crawl in Manila’s iconic Chinatown are Ying Ying Tea House and CBK Cafe.
Ying Ying Tea House
Ying Ying Teahouse is a fantastic place to quench your thirst after walking around Binondo. Located in Yuchengco St, this unassuming spot has become an institution in the area.
What I love about this place is its extensive menu, which includes everything from dim sum to roast Peking duck. But after exploring Binondo, what really shines is their buchi, pineapple bread, and egg tarts, which are the perfect way to end your food crawl on a high note.
In terms of beverages, Ying Ying Tea House has you covered. Their milk tea is rich and flavorful and served hot or cold. Additionally, you can get this milk tea with coffee if you want a caffeine-induced energy boost before heading home.
CBK Cafe
If you’re in the mood for a change of scenery and cuisine, then CBK Cafe is my go-to recommendation.
Located along Quintin Paredes St, this rooftop cafe’s chill vibe perfectly contrasts the hecticness of the streets below. It’s an oasis where you can escape the district’s sights and sounds, which can sometimes be overwhelming.
This spot has a Western-inspired menu, and after a long day of eating pancit, hopia, and lumpia, it provides a welcome change of pace. I’m particularly fond of pasta dishes, especially the pesto. It’s creamy, indulgent, and a perfect treat for the end of the day.
Aside from food, CBK Cafe has an incredibly appealing, laid-back, cosmopolitan atmosphere. Its interior is sleek, with comfortable seating and good lighting. Plus, there’s an outdoor area with incredible views that transforms into a casual bar once the Manila sun goes down.
Tips for a successful Binondo food crawl
Are you ready to embark on a Binondo food crawl? Here are some tips to ensure that your tour is a delicious success. From managing your appetite to connecting with the locals, these pointers will help you get around Manila’s bustling Chinatown like an absolute pro.
Pace yourself accordingly
Binondo is a treasure trove of flavors, and it’s tempting to try everything in sight, but you must pace yourself.
On my first visit, I made the mistake of filling up at the first stop, leaving me too full to continue by midday. Thus, if you don’t want to be like me, beginning with smaller portions and keeping them small is crucial, as it’s extremely easy to get stuffed with good Chinese-Filipino cuisine.
Try unfamiliar dishes
It’s essential to keep an open mind when going to Binondo, as it isn’t the place to play it safe with familiar dishes. While it is indeed possible to do so, what is the point of that?
You should make it a point to try at least one dish you’ve never tried before with every visit to Binondo. Why so? These unfamiliar dishes will likely become the highlight of your food crawl, whether it is a strange street food or a restaurant specialty.
Interact with the locals
Interacting with the locals is a crucial part of any Binondo food crawl. After all, these folks are the heart and soul of the area, and they’ve got tons of interesting stories to tell.
I personally always try to strike up a conversation, even if it only involves a few words. And don’t worry if your Tagalog or Chinese isn’t perfect because almost all locals understand English even if they don’t speak it. Moreover, even a few basic phrases and hand gestures will get you quite a long way.
Practice photography etiquette
In this age of social media and clout, it may be tempting to document every dish and street corner.
And why not? I would argue that Binondo is Manila’s most photogenic neighborhood.
Even so, it’s important to remember that this place is a living, breathing community and not a mere backdrop for Instagram posts.
Always ask for permission before taking pictures, especially of people or the inside of establishments. When it comes to food photos, try to be quick about it. Although we all want that perfect shot, remember that the food is meant to be eaten, not just photographed.
Lastly, I advise you to consider your surroundings when taking photos. Binondo can get pretty crowded, and the last thing you’d want is to block pathways or disrupt businesses while trying to get the perfect angle.
Putting it all together
Binondo is one of Manila’s best destinations, and for good reason. The world’s oldest Chinatown is a melting pot of different cultures that all merge to provide a tantalizing sensory experience that will amaze you. From delicious noodle dishes to the country’s best dim sum, this place definitely won’t let you leave without feeling full, satisfied, and eager to return for more.
However, you should note that Binondo offers so much more than food. This place provides a distinct snapshot of Chinese-Filipino culture, architecture, and history. Walking through, you’ll hear a mix of languages and see people from all walks of life, making it a place to experience Manila’s diverse culture firsthand.